By Lu Chi
Introduction
Zhavame village lies at the foot of Kapamodzu Peak, the fourth-highest mountain in Nagaland. Located in India’s Phek district, it has been home to the Chakhesang Naga tribe for over 300 years, as passed down through oral traditions. The name ‘Zhavame’ means ‘people of the enchanted lake’ in the local Poula dialect—a fitting name, as the village lies on flatland that was once a lake, surrounded by towering mountains.
The village has a rich cultural heritage, deeply rooted in tradition. Sacred trees, long protected and revered, still stand as enduring symbols of the past. As we entered the village, a local researcher pointed to a tree considered highly sacred. He explained that anyone who disrespects it may face immediate consequences—even death. Although most villagers today have converted to Christianity and many new developments have taken place, these beliefs still persist, particularly among the elders.
Walking through Zhavame, we could feel the echoes of a deep and enduring connection to village traditions. Many homes proudly display Feast of Merit horns, signifying past community feasts hosted by their owners. Inside, rice is stored in beautifully carved bamboo barns, and large wooden containers hold grains. Some homes still preserve dried meat from ceremonies held decades ago, serving as a testament to their rich traditions and a symbol of ancestral pride. At the home of a local researcher, we saw a piece of dried buffalo meat that had been preserved since his parents’ wedding over 30 years ago.
To explore these traditions further, our team visited Zhavame twice in 2024—once in May and again in October—staying for a week each time. These visits gave us firsthand insight into the village’s way of life.
During conversations with elders, local residents, and community leaders, we learnt that Zhavame’s geographical advantage made it ideal for rice cultivation. The lower, southern part of the village was particularly fertile due to its warmer climate, producing higher rice yields than the colder northern side.
We reflected that, due to its abundant rice production, Zhavame likely held more Feast of Merit ceremonies than many other villages. This was evident in the high number of houses bearing horn decorations. The Feast of Merit is a grand communal celebration requiring large bamboo barns filled with rice and generous livestock offerings. An elderly couple recalled hosting this feast twice in their lifetime, the last one occurring 42 years ago. At that time, they contributed two large barns of rice and one barn of sticky rice—enough to feed a family of five for a year—and sacrificed three buffaloes, four cows, five pigs, two chickens, and two dogs. The following day, the wife’s clan gathered for a feast, accompanied by the finest rice beer.
The primary purpose of the Feast of Merit was to share prosperity with the community. Those who hosted it not only gained honour but also earned the privilege of wearing a special traditional shawl. The elderly woman remembered a time when money was unknown and unnecessary. She showed us two mekhela (sarong) garments gifted to her in recognition of the feast she and her husband hosted. Her husband recalled that when he hosted his Feast of Merit 42 years ago, there were over 500 households in the village. Back then, markets did not exist, so instead of selling meat, they would announce to the villagers, ‘We’ve cut the meat,’ and shared it freely. The feast was a matter of pride and honour. It granted social status, the right to wear the merit shawl, and (for the men) the ability to have a say in village decisions. It required substantial resources—land, money, rice, and livestock. In the past, celebrations stretched over two to three months, with ongoing rituals and communal rice beer consumption.
The Feast of Merit, once a grand celebration of wealth and generosity, has transformed over time in Zhavame. While it still holds cultural significance, its format has evolved. Many of the old customs have been replaced by prayers and church services, with villagers offering blessings for good health, expressing gratitude to God, and appreciating the host’s generosity. Reflecting this shift towards Christian traditions, the last feast took place two years ago on Christmas Day. The host slaughtered two buffaloes, along with several other animals, though the exact number sacrificed is unknown. Unlike in the past, rice beer was absent, replaced by prayers for health and gratitude. However, the host built a horn-house, a structure that can only be constructed by those who have completed all the traditional processes of the Feast of Merit. Though the traditional aspects have been modified, the spirit of the feast—honouring hard work, generosity, and community unity—remains a valued practice, although in a modernised form.
A 72-year-old woman who converted from animism to Christianity a decade ago reflected on how traditional beliefs once governed every aspect of life. In the past, villagers strictly followed the words of their elders, with rituals and taboos guiding their daily lives.
Their ancestors believed that forests, mountains, wind, and rain were watched over by guardian spirits. At the beginning or end of each agricultural season, the villagers performed a ritual called ‘Nü’, which involved specific customs, such as eating only rice for an entire day after harvesting and refraining from consuming salt. They would also smear the inner walls of their granaries with a special type of freshwater fish to ensure the rice lasted longer.
During our conversation, we observed the elderly woman putting ashes into a pot of pig food to ward off poisonous insects. She recounted that in the past, when the weather was too harsh—too windy or too rainy—men would gather to curse the person who had committed ‘Aba’ (a wrongdoing against the sky). A man would call out, ‘The one who wronged the sky is dead!’ and the others would chant, ‘Phiaa, Phiaa, Whee, Whee,’ believing that by doing so, the weather would return to normal.
Another elderly woman also said that in the past, people believed that if they did not follow the sacred days as instructed by the Chieftain, strong winds would blow away their roofs. There was also a ritual in which they would sacrifice a cat while chanting a curse: ‘May those who steal or harm others with witchcraft perish or find no success.’ In that way, they protected themselves from theft and witchcraft.
In the past, parents would often say that those who lived good lives were blessed with long lives. An elderly woman recalled seeing many old people in her youth. In those days, people always spoke the truth, but now she feels lies are more common. Because of this, conflicts have increased. Although disputes did occur in the past, they were much less frequent than they are today.
Although most of the villagers have converted to Christianity, there are still six practicing animists in the village, and we had the opportunity to speak with one. He shared that even today, in times of severe drought, they seek the help of the eldest animist to perform an ancient ritual. Before sunrise or before the rooster crows, he pours water at the village entrance gate, just as their ancestors did for generations. They say that rain always follows the ritual.
In the past, the people of Zhavame did not just uphold traditions; they lived in harmony with nature. An elder explained that large trees and rocks were once considered sacred because spirits were believed to reside in them. If someone took a rock or cut down a tree, they would fall sick or even die. For example, those who removed large rocks often suffered from severe stomach pains and perished. However, modern construction has led to the disappearance of these sacred stones.
She also spoke of the Thapipere tree, which was deeply feared by the villagers. Nobody harmed such a tree; otherwise, immediate punishment would follow. At that time, people claimed trees by naming them, and once a tree was named, no one else could cut it down, thereby showing their respect for one another. Some trees were planted in memory of family members who had passed away. These trees were given special care and treated like living relatives, ensuring that their memory endured. The elderly woman told us that there is still such a tree at the village entrance that bears the name of her sister.
Old stone monuments also hold great cultural significance. Before Christianity spread, villagers believed that every place had its own guardian spirit. Streams, rocks, and great trees were all under the watch of invisible beings. Whenever villagers needed to work in a certain area, they first sought permission from its guardian spirit.
Echoes of the Past — Zhavame Village, Nagaland: Part 1
By Lu Chi
MyClimate Senior Researcher.